
With the change in time zones, we found ourselves ready for the road at an early hour. We crossed the Mississippi at Rock Island-Moline-Davenport-Bettendorf, where our intentions to visit the island at Rock Island were foiled by a closed exit off the highway. We went over the bridge and looked back from the grounds of the Isle of Capri casino barge. People were parking there to get on a bus to watch the John Deere Classic golf tournament. It was too hot, we thought, to be playing or watching golf. It was good to be in a car with air conditioning.
The highlight of the day was our visit to the Amana colonies, once an experiment in communal living based on the inspiration of Christian Metz, a seer of late 18th, early 19th century Germany. His Community of True Inspiraton lasted about 100 years, established first near Buffalo, NY, and then in several villages named Amana this and Amana that in Eastern Iowa. The Religious Society of True Inspiration still survives with about 350 members, though the community was dissolved into a corporation in 1932.
We had another German-style meal this day, including a glass of Iowa wine, and wished for the excellent historical museums of New England as we figured out how to thread our way among the various exhibits. There was a museum gift shop with a short film, so we watched that -- informative. But the best part was talking with Emily, the gift shop proprietress and introducer of the film. She was part of the religious society of True Inspiration, and spoke with first hand knowledge of the way life was in the Colonies. When we went to see the common kitchen in Middle Amana, we learned a great deal more from a widow whose name we did not learn, also a Church member, but a convert in her earlier years to the Church. She had learned about the ways of the community when it practiced communal living from her older neighbor, who had owned the building to which the kitchen was attached.
These Colonies had common kitchens serving ten or so families. The women worked in the kitchens and in the kitchen gardens, while the men attended to the other enterprises of the Colony (you may have heard of Amana appliances?). There were old kitchen implements, photos of the gardens, and much more in the little brick building attached to a house. Food was taken in silence, with 15 minutes allowed for each meal, no dawdling!
Our last stop was at the Church museum. One of the meetinghouses has been taken over to be used as an exhibit. There we met another elderly woman with a wealth of story about the Amana Colonies. Harriet regaled us with tales of religious practice, being careful to emphasize how normal and similar to regular Lutherans their independent community is.
It was later than we meant it to be by the time we headed West again. Our way was plagued with road construction and punctuated with accidents. We saw one car upside down in the bushes by the side of the road, a charred trailer still in flames after the rest of its accident had been cleaned up, and a semi that had laid itself and its trailer over on the side across three lanes of traffic... it occurred to us that if we are going to be driving many, many, miles a day, we are likely to see more accidents than in normal life. It was not greatly comforting. Still, we are looking forward to tomorrow's drive with renewed determination to drive safely.